5/20 Dreams of vampires, friends as vampires “in deviltown.” Breaking poolsticks to make stakes, blood smeared round their mouths.
woke up slow—Room pitch black, met two Isreali tourists last night Roy and (?) his girlfriend, they played cards, I brought the wine, she told me the walls of Rumi Wilco were a sort that bred parasites. They told me about their trip north from
I lay in the hammock outside my room—Donkey bray in distance—bird twitter and river drone.
Budding face
the body becomes all time
the beloved all space
Everything breaths again
I have dark premonitions of a tragic young death—staining the family psyche—so much promise—wasted. I fear the day that mom accepts the fact that it isn’t just nerves. So I feel like my days are numbered—but I also feel more and more keenly—a sense of mission. I must realize my destiny (the image of the beloved). Who else knows, really knows in their guts, the reality of Joyce, Bruno, Nietzsche, Rimbaud, Blake—their interconnected concerns—Hunger and Opposition.
Met James Chiemenem (from
You’re not a Christian.—Do you believe Christ died for our sins? I thought for a second—yes—Do you go to Church? No. You’re an atheist—No I believe in God—and pointed to the mountains.
Municipio de Loja:
Higiene
Theadoro Abarca. 64 years old:
T: I work for the municipal 31 years, and I’ve lived in this valley all my life and I’ve never left. I’ve worked for the public, also in agriculture, care-taker of animals, and with cattle. Vilcabamba, thirty years ago nobody knew about it, it was without tourists, without anything, but tranquil, more little old people then. My grandfather lived until 120 years, and all my family lived more then 100 years with good vision and strength, it was normal. As the history of Vilcabamba goes, there are two mountains, Mandango and on the other side Waranga. The ancient ones told that the two mountains fought, Mandango throwing silver, and the other throwing gold, the Vilcabambanos put the crosses up to calm them because they were volcanoes. The rivers were beautiful, the one coming down from San Pedro, called the Uchima, all the way to Capamaco, were rivers of crystal. Now, the river from San Pedro is contaminated. We try to maintain intact the wild, and reforest more. But there was the bear, danta, monkey, tiger and 600 species of birds, its like this still in
Where is this?
T: Near San Pedro, follow the river and that’s where it is, by the park in front of San Pedro. I work here, but near this park is where I live. It’s a marvel.
T: There isn’t work here. Here, each person lives by cultivating sugar cane, coffee, corn, they have their cow, they sell a little milk, not work like in other cities with businesses, companies, here exists none of this, every inhabitant lives by his own property. Cultivating, growing. He has his chickens, his little pigs, to sell. It’s not like in other parts, where there are big companies, here there is nothing of that. It’s tremendous. This is the problem. Before the whole world came here…because all the world is here: French, English, there are Chinese, there are Japanese, and all buy land for high prices and built on it. And they buy their land from the people of Vilcabamba. But we don’t need to sell. Some want to sell the water from this mountain. But we don’t have to. We need to conserve. I have another story of a marvel… of caves in the rocks by the side of the river, there are many high caves in the rocks, there live the bears. There they stop… and leave through a crevice. In the night I hear their loud bellows. I have a house in front, I hear with such clarity what they are searching for.
Sitting by the silenced fountain in the center of town, where I sat two years back.
Strange feelings. Recorded two people today and spoke with many more. Grey white skies. It’s almost like I’m always tripping here. Watching people walk by, “buenas.” Many pretty young girls, mostly too young for me.
Ernest Carpio— A lone old man with large cowboy hat and even larger spectacles- his eyes loomed large, his hands purple- 97 he said he was- we talked, I squatted next to him- he in his chair holding a carved wooden cane- with dragon head and a marble in its mouth and a plastic bottle top stuck on the tip to protect the wood. He told me of the health of the valley in the past, only eating healthy food & drinking clean water- now chemicals. His children have moved away and his woman and siblings are dead. Talking about the past brought tears to his eyes—or it seemed that way to me. At some point he said I wasn’t understanding him.
(the tapping of his cane punctuated his voice):
E: In the life before, the ancient life, we ate ancient things, but now we don’t eat these foods, ya? We eat fumigated food. Ya, my father was 130 years strong and we ate only healthy food. He worked in agriculture and we ate papaya, platano, camote, yucca, sevada, trigo. The earth was healthy with nothing of fumigation. The waters were clean. And we were also! Because we ate these foods.
He worked in Zumba to the southeast, traveling by donkey because there wasn’t a road. We learned to work the same as them. They’re all dead now, there’s only me left. We were eight, the children of Miguel Carpio. We were eight and now there is no more then one. No more then just me. Also my woman died. I’m alone.
You have children?
E: Eight, they work far away, one in the
You’ve lived here all your life?
E: All my life I lived here, I was born here, and I’ll die here.
Do you know myths of Mandango or Guaranga, of the mountains or rivers?
E: Guaranga is the mountain there, and Mandango is here. These are the riches of Vilcabamba. Strangers came and climbed up Mandango to find the treasures but they couldn’t…
E: Life is very expensive here. Before things were sold here cheap. But that does not pass anymore. Now the silver runs. We get little money in exchange. Now strangers come with other money, to work here.
Would you like to share some memories, good or bad, or your life here?
…(no answer)
E: Ten siblings, all have died, in my earth I have nobody.
Ten? I’m an only child.
E: The only…
Wiping his eyes cry tear
Sitting there—brothers
Sisters—wife—all dead
Children moved away—
I dredged up the past and
It was painful.
Showed him a picture of his father
from Grace Halsell’s book.
The sweet pain—
A joyful sorrow—a sorrowful joy
Chirimoya—fruit white black seeds
enrique delgado—63
nube- cloud
Boy did Alicia Falco give me information! Leads to follow.
Mandolin looks at mountains intoxication of dream potentia and the green mountains look back. The musician doesn’t want me to record him—pero puedes escuchar. Motor bikes squak squak birds. Music helps the dream. Waranga female pole, Mandango masculine pole. One way of explaining Vilcabamba’s secret. Alicia told me Vilca comes from Wilco—sacred trees of the sacred valley. 5000 years the Inca used Wilco—They carried the hallucinogenic seeds around and spread them where they went—The priests! mind you—not the plebian workers. Incan priests sowed Wilco seeds as they conquered the continent. But people do not use Wilco anymore in Vilcabamba.
Real Estate
Wilcopampa
It offers you the best property
options
You can discuss the price directly with the
owners
You do not have to pay any commission
We offer the services of architects and
engineers
for any job
competitive prices
Over the slanted bridge
Gabriel & Teresa sing in the night. Sounds like a cross between Native American & Gregorian chants. I walked back to Rumi Wilco with my tiny blue circle guiding me— a truck was blaring radio & intermixed with selling goods over a loud speaker. I turned down the path to Rumi Wilco. Caught sight of moon over distant hills—always a luminous mysterious greenblue shroud on the rim of the mountains. I hear an intense cricket buzz high pitched alongside the more normal chirp—I reach for my recorder and discover it has been on in my backpack since I left Jorge Mendieta’s house— rewind and listen to my footsteps—a girl passes by suddenly—long stony path alongside the river—seeing her I see myself—the moon phosphorescent fireflies flash beep…beep—in an instant I travel thousands of years to lovers known & lost— the enchantment of the night flares up phantasms with simply one passing female figure through the shadows. Desire longs in me, longing till the furthest star. I wonder if I can be a man for a woman…or have I blown my chance and now only a lame dog. Desire seems the truth of life.
The nights are difficult. Sitting alone, lonely—There is reading & writing & drinking wine. Oh well.
Jorge Mendieta. 53 yrs.
J: Hello my friend. What is your name?
Cristobal.
J: My friend Cristobal. We are talking this moment of the man Jose Maria Roa, in relevance to Vilcabamba. But in reality, he was not born in Vilcabamba, he was born poor and it was very pleasant to know him and know his name. We called him Mas Sana Maka. Therefore, to know him, from this person I learned when I was 6 or 7 years old for 5 or 6 years when he was in this area. He had 90 years and lived more then 100 years. And how was the life of them? When there no existed a road, when there was no light, when two cars arrived a day in Vilcabamba, two cars a day. Now, there are cars. Therefore, you have to practically walk to Vilcabamba, I don’t know what the others think but I think the change is like everywhere. But, there isn’t the same change, all is fulfilled, all is a sigh, all is good. But in Vilcabamba there is a different change then in other places. Here there are people of the all the world. Now. Until twenty years ago it was not like this. Not like this. It was, there came much tourism.
Do you believe it is bad?
J: Bad no. Bad no. If they bring a good concept. Such as to conserve. They can’t come to make business of land. They can’t come to buy all the land and leave the natives that remain without nothing. The concept that has to bring foreigners is, if I go to Vilcabamba, if I want to remain there, to buy a little piece of land in order to live, no more. But if I want to buy up everything in order to sell, make business and leave the natives without land. Now, what one foreigner pays, no native can give to buy back, there is not money for this. Therefore, if they were to be reborn, certainly, that they would not like it. It would not agree with them. I don’t know what you think, Cristobal….The people of this age, those that lived in Vilcabamba more then 100 years, ya, they died. They died and are being born right now. And to find Vilcabamba, how is it? Certainly, they would not like it. Therefore, good, as in all parts…
Change.
J: Change, and in all parts, there is good and there is bad, half of the foreigners are good, we consider them good, like this, superficially, but if we go to the words of God, there is no good in the world, hah, there is no good, there is no taste, no? Therefore, we are good and we look for good people, and neither I am good nor the other good, for God there isn’t taste. All aspire for this. We have good and we have bad, both people, a little good and a little bad. Sometimes we can live, who knows how many years good, and repent for living one day bad, to think bad, to act bad, where, where for God it is sufficient to say you never were good. There, that is life. Therefore, to know in this time, there was a very different life then what they have here now, there were no walls, no limits, there were not limits in Vilcabamba. All was one only. Only sell through references by word of mouth, there was a reference. For where the hill of earth, the mountain, over there, from here to where the hill of the mountain makes a river was of one person, on the other side there was another person, but there wasn’t wall, there wasn’t wire or metal, nothing, but beautiful earth, when they lived. Therefore, after, ya, in order to grow a chakra, they made only a site where they were to grow, only a site. Therefore, the place where they were to harvest they left alone, only made a little fence of wood, no more. Was not of metal, only wood, you understand? They put it only around their crops, such as cane, coffee, corn…they made walls but only around what they were growing, it was more open…. In this time there wasn’t a hospital, there weren’t doctors, no. Each person knew the curative properties of each plant. Therefore, all the world, if one was sick and they could not bring the medicines, the neighbor would bring them because they also knew the properties of the plants. They prepared the medications and cured. A person would only go to a doctor in
Was there shamanism here?
J: No, no shamans, it was natural, it was a natural life, a traditional medicine.
Yes but were there men or women who knew…
J: In this time almost all knew. It was shared between neighbors.
There wasn’t special knowledge?
J: There were some people that knew more, but all the people knew. Therefore, for a pain in the stomach, they would prepare water of manzanilla. A tea of manzanilla. For someone that was nervous, half-crazy, a tea of toronjil, if cut they would wash it with matico, put sangre
Cinchona?
J: It is a medicinal plant that counters the malaria.
Yes I read of this.
J: Counters the malaria. Therefore, the history says that the King of Peru had his wife with malaria, and he found that in Malacatos, in the village there, existed a doctor that cured malaria. Like a shaman. He was not a medical student that had graduated, he was a doctor because he knew the plants, nothing more. Therefore, the wife, I am not sure, the wife she was called with the last name Cinchona. Or the site where she lived was Cinchona. The King invited the doctor to cure his wife. Therefore, the medicinal plant that naturally counters the malaria is called the cascarilla, but this Cinchona put an other name…
Quinine.
J: Quinine. Ya, quinine is the property, the curative property of the plant is quinine. But the natural name is cascarilla, the name they put on is cinchona, because it cured the lady. And they made the plant know to all the world, the whole world knows it because it is in the books, in Lonely Planet, but I’ve never left Vilcabamba. Always I’ve lived here. Ya, therefore, there arrived the knowledge of the doctors, or scientists of
Yes, I understand.
J: Therefore, I don’t know what more to say, but the nature was here, the medicine was born, existed, born, created, existed the medicine that counters the malaria originated in Vilcabamba especially. Especially Vilacbamba because it is a plant you can not find in less then 1500 meters and above 2000 meters. Is a special area where it exits. It is a cord, where you are going to find this plant, it is equal to the podocarpus. Podocarpus will not be found wherever you want to find it. Only in the
Podocarpus?
J: Podocarpus. These things existed and passed and will never return. There came a group of scientists that visited with this book, I don’t know when they wrote it.
76?
J: Yes, around then, yes. They came to know here, one of these birth parties, and an aunt of mine was in one of these birth parties. She is here, Dolores Mendieta. She was the sister of my grandfather, of my little grandfather. She was a great aunt to me. Yes, she lived by, her work was making bread. And, making candles, candles for the church. This was the work of my aunt. Here are a few of the old people. This picture is of Don Miguel Carpio Mendieta, also lived here.
I met Ernesto Carpio today.
J: I believe he is his nephew.
He said he is his father.
J: His father, yes, yes. Yes he is his papa. Also there existed one who was older but the scientists didn’t come during his time, they called him Jose Toledo. He was older, was before and lived 141 years. Miguel Carpio Mendieta had 128 years.
And now, people don’t live as long?
J: Now, 90, 96. Until 100, yes they arrive at 100, but rare.
Thing change.
J: Yes there is an old man up in the mountains, an old man that I think has more then 100 years. He is very very good.
I would like to walk…
J: Yes, he no, he no… he lives away from here. But not far, like 40 minutes walking. We can go to visit, I would like to introduce you to him. He is a very original person. And I know, he worked in agriculture, counting cane, taking corn, hard work and his family live very happy. They call him, Jose…Jose…and before, the names were Jose, Jose, Jose…all were Jose. Or Juan or Pedro. They were very catholic.
Alicia told me of a woman that lives with the iron water.
J: That is Micaela. She lives right up here. Yes but she isn’t very old. She has 80 or 85 years.
Are there many people living up in the mountains?
J: No, no. There were many people living up there, but afterwards they came down. We, until the age of 20, we worked much the land and we lived outside the city. After, I don’t know what happened. All the world left their lands. Before, in Vilcabamba, more then 50% were empty houses. People didn’t live here, because the owners of the houses lived on their farms, outside. After, they left their farms and came to live in Vilcabamba. After, when tourism came, all the world wanted to work in tourism, and what was this tourism? Young people like you, came to Vilcabamba for a short time, their parents gave them money, or they had their own proper money, and they came to
J: This tourism makes much publicity of los viejos. Foreigners come to Vilcabamba, buy land, and build their house, therefore, tourism transforms into construction. This moment, 40% of the people work in construction. And people that are not from Vilcabamba, come from Loja, come from other towns to work in Vilcabamba because there is much work in construction. Good.
It is very famous.
J: Yes. Therefore, I, personally, I am always, I am a person who conserves the traditions.
…
J: I have more strength then a man of 20 years. My health is better then a 20 year old. I work more then a 20 year old. I work at this San Juaquin for a stranger of the
…
J: I’m going to tell of my life. I was born here in Vilcabamba, in the sector of the river Papamaco. I was born outside the village, two hours in that direction. After I was born, my mom had another baby so she brought me to the mother of my mother, my grandmother. And she worked in, at this time I had two years and a little more, before three years. My grandmother worked as a midwife, helping the women deliver babies. Take the baby, cut the cord, wash them. Therefore, when I was a little bigger, I helped her collect the medicines. I learned the medicines without believing, I didn’t know that they were good. I didn’t know I was learning. My father, he worked making houses of wood, but there wasn’t much work here and in this time the people emigrated, they went to the east, to Zumba, to the Amazon, to buy large lands to work. Then one day my father returned, to spend some time with his children. And it was decided that I would go and work with my father, to learn what he did. I believe that I didn’t like sleeping at home after 17 years. I went. And I arrived in
Did you learn shaman songs?
J: No, no.
But all the plants.
J: The plants, yes. Shamanism, I don’t like a little. When you play music and invoke spirits, this I don’t like. I don’t like… I don’t have fear, but, I don’t much like to interpret people. Because one time I spoke with a shaman, he had a ball of crystal, and the work desired was like this, burn a little for the saviors, a white rock, to the person. I’m going to burn a little of the side of the crystal here. Therefore, if they had lost an animal, a horse, a cow, something. He would say, it is in this part. And after, I asked Albramca la Sacon, my friend, “How do you know where to find the animals? How do you know?” And he said, “Ohhhh I don’t know nothing, but the person pays me when I say this.” “Ahhhhh.” Therefore, many times a shaman is not certain, is not the truth. But the plants do not lie. There was another problem. There was shaman that had a table with a microphone hidden underneath. He would be somewhere else listening, and in comes a lady, very beautiful, very elegant, very good. She came in sick and entered through here, “I hurt here”, there is a someone to question her, “where are you from?” “I’m from here”, “What is your name?” “My name is this” “How old are you?” “And what happened?” “This is what happened to me, I came so that the curer would cure me” “But right now he is not here, he left, ya he’s coming”. Therefore, he is listening to all this, and afterwards he comes. Coming down the path and enters through here, “Are there any patients?” “Yes, here is one, there is another, he arrived first, he after, and there is the other that arrived” and therefore he would know, “you are single, you have this problem, the sickness is this” “How do you know! You weren’t here when I was telling” and he gave medicine and they left. And many times he cured, he knew the medicine. They say, “What a good doctor! What a good shaman!” HAHAHA!!! This is shamanism, often shamanism is like this. Therefore, the San Pedro, you know the San Pedro? is a hallucinogenic plant the shamans use for their work. And here in Vilcabamba, people don’t know that the properties contained in the bark of the Wilco is very superior to the San Pedro! This people don’t know.
Do people here take San Pedro?
J: Here, no, no. It is more the foreigners that come who take it. From here, no, no they don’t consume it much. There are some who will take it casually. Or more, there are people who prepare it to sell to foreigners, especially. It is better they don’t know the properties of the Wilco because they would cut them. The San Pedro is a little endangered because they cut it.
…
J: Why do we exist? Why do we live? And more, the important thing is to conserve. Until this hour I can not find anybody or a group or a foundation or something, that are interested in conservation, but all the world is sleeping, when I see them burning the mountain, I say Ahhhhh, afterwards comes the winter, the rain, and there it goes. They burn how many thousands of hectors, they have destroyed? Therefore, I have to find some group that is interested, but interested, not interested in money, but interested in conservation. I remember, before, when there were not limits, there was much much live stock, cows, in the countryside, where the owner almost didn’t know how many cows he had, and they never put an injection.
Never.
J: Never. nothing. Why? Because the animals are so intelligent, they know the medicines that exist in nature. Therefore, one has a pain of the stomach, it eats the plant good for the stomach and cures itself. This was one way to find the medicines in nature, but after came the chemical. The chemical appeared to be a thing very good but in reality, no.
What type of chemical?
J: The chemical arrived with people saying, who wants to have a pasture of pure weeds? Therefore, take the chemical and fumigate all that has the round leaf. For certain, they said, it’ll kill the bad weeds. But in reality, they didn’t know they were killing good herbs.
Jorge Mendieta
I’m a pest, guy just got
home from work,
in the bathroom—clearing his
throat—
says he’ll meet with me
sabados o domingos—
mas
santa clause face on wall
little daughter in princess
dress—problem with
remote—can’t find
volume—neither can
Jorge—they give it to the
gringo—she shows
me her Snow White coloring
book—she’s
colored the evil queen
I say I like her colors
the queen’s purple face
and all psychedelic
color scheme—I ask
what she’s watching on
tv—“peliculas”
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